CLAY+essence
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Clenaser
second cleanse,  Tia'm

Tia’m Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser

the claim

The Tia’m Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser is a mild gel cleanser that helps to maintain a healthy skin pH while also reducing skin irritation that can be caused by cleansing.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser
 

the science

Represented at the highest concentration, following water, is Cocamidopropyl Betaine. This ingredient is a gentle surfactant which acts as a cleansing and lathering agent. According to beauty guru, Paula Begoun of Paula’s Choice Skincare, it is too mild to clean adult skin when used alone. Thus the requirement for Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate at position 3. A water soluble, sulfate-free, coconut derived surfactant, it too is incredibly mild and considered one of the safest on the market. Finally, included at 50ppm is third, less prominent surfactant featuring last on the INCI, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate. Guaiazulene is derived from azulene, the blue colored constituent of chamomile oil. It contributes to the resultant gel colour.
 
Featuring at 7% concentration, Snail Secretion Filtrate is rich in hyaluronic acid and has been shown to exhibit antioxidant behaviour, stimulate collagen production and the presence of Allantoin can accelerate healing. According to cosmetic dermatologist, Anna Guanche, “It prevents dryness and makes the skin look dewy, with fewer allergenic ingredients than our current anti-aging armamentarium.”
 
Allantoin is additionally included for its water-retention capacity, providing skin replenishing and restoring benefits. Vitamin B5, Panthenol is able to reach into the lower layers for deep cell absorption and hence effective moisturisation. Chamomile Extract displays anti-inflammatory behaviour to calm sensitive skin and redness. It also protects with antioxidant properties.
 
Finally, Butylene Glycol is included to increase the effectiveness of other ingredients as well as thin the essence consistency. It also displays humectant properties, helping to draw moisture from the air back into the skin cells.
 
Other ingredients are added for texture enhancing and preservative function.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser
 

the ingredients

Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Snail Secretion Filtrate (7%), Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acrylates Copolymer, Tromethamine, Ethyl Hexanediol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile) Flower Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate (50ppm)
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Ingredients
 

the packaging

When the product was received, it was fully enclosed in cling wrap as shown below, to protect it from involuntarily dispensing and to indicate any tampering. The cleanser comes in an opaque cylindrical bottle with screw top lid and cap opening.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Cling WrapTia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Dispensing Mechanism
 

the analysis

An acceptable assessment is returned from both the CosDNA and EWG resources, rating the Tia’m Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser a low hazard.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser CosDNA Analysis
 

the application

Pump a small amount onto wet hands and lather well. Apply the lather onto the face and massage in circular motions. Rinse with lukewarm water.
 

the scent

The cleanser has a distinct scent.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser
 

the cost

The cleanser costs approximately AUD$23.00 for a 200ml bottle.
 

the availability

Tia’m products are available at Korean skincare boutiques including Yes Style. I received mine directly from the brand.
 

the expiry

The cleanser has a two year shelf life. I could not detect a use duration after opening on the packaging.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Expiry
 

the performance

With respect to the presentation of the product, the entire Snail & Azulene line has a consistent white packaging with bold purple labelling. It is very recognisable and distinct. The plastic is hard so not squeezable therefore, there is a reliance on the product to ooze out of the opening for dispensing. As it is quite a runny gel, this works well. The only negative is that you can’t gauge how much product remains since it is a completely opaque bottle. However, this also acts to protect the product from light exposure. Note, the bottle will balance upside down so it is easy to retrieve all of it, ensuring none is wasted. Alternatively, the cap screws off for easy access to the last drops.
 
The product is well priced and a budget friendly option costing around AUD$20 for a large 200ml volume.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Gel Appearance
The gel has a purple hue attributed by the azulene content. The smell is medicinal and a little hard to describe. I can identify chamomile and there is a resemblance to rosemary (although this is absent from the formula), other members of the family suggesting it smells like a spicy mulled wine or ginger beer. It is quite fresh and pleasant however a little strong. Thankfully the smell is only contributed by the formula without any added fragrance.
 
The first thing I do when I receive a product that claims a pH benefit is measure the ph of course. I did a couple of home tests and found the level to be as claimed (around 5.5) which is ideal. The cleaning power of the product comes from coconut derived surfactants at high concentrations. Both are gentle and effective at removing dirt and pollutants. The snail secretion filtrate makes up 7% of the product. I didn’t find it sufficient to give the gel a slimy, stretchy consistency such as that of serums and essences which typically contain much high concentrations of snail mucin. Nonetheless, 7% on a wash off product is a good amount to contribute some level of soothing and moisture.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser pH Test
I applied it on moist skin and massaged it in circular motions to generate a foam. A satisfying lather results which is gentle even around the eyes. It rinses off easily to reveal clean skin. I found after all the surface water evaporated, my skin retained a good level of moisture. There was no stripping or tightening sensation, indicating the cleanser did in fact provide a balanced result.
 
I have been using this product as my first and second steps, morning and evening respectively for around three weeks now. I haven’t noticed much difference in my skin since I was previously using a pH balanced cleanser in a similar fashion. The positive derived from this is that my moisture barrier continues to thrive. The included moisturing and soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, snail secretion filtrate and chamomile extract) certainly assure the skin is left in a good condition upon completion although they are not on the skin long enough to impart any deep hydration or benefit but perhaps help to prevent any detrimental impact of cleansing, reducing skin irritation as claimed. The individual ingredients come together in a gentle formula and work well together to deliver a solid cleanse that would suit all skin types including sensitive, mature and compromised.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser Texture
 

the conclusion

In conclusion, the Tia’m Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser is a gentle and effective gel cleanser that I am happy to recommend. I will happily continue to use it until finished.
 
Tia'm Snail & Azulene Low pH Cleanser
 

the summary

Pros Cons
Safe formulation Only available online for Australians
Well priced, budget friendly
Gentle yet effective cleansing action
Hygienic presentation
Generates a satisfying foam
Suitable for all skin types

 

the references

Yes Style
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Paula’s Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary
What Does Snail Slime Actually Do for Your Skin? Lori Keong
Panthenol Truth In Aging
Butylene Glycol The Dermatology Review
Allantoin, the wonder ingredient for the skin Samantha Miller
 


the disclaimer

Please read in context with my disclaimer.
 
This product was provided to me free of charge by Tia’m for review. This post only includes my honest opinion and experience of this product and is in no way influenced by Tia’m, any of its stockists, representatives or any other third party.
 


 

8 Comments

    • denise

      Hi Dee, thanks for your question. It’s an extremely gentle cleanser. I don’t know whether it would improve the oil balance of your skin as there don’t seem to be any ingredients that specifically deliver that advantage but it would suit all, even sensitive skin types.

  • Dee

    Hi Denise, thx for the answer! I’ll just contact Tiam Global Skincare on Facebook and see. Your post was rather informative on the benefits.

    It’s really hard to find a good 2nd cleanser when my skin is oily, dehydrated, has eczema and so on. I guess in the worst case, I should stick to basics and leave oil-controlling to serums and so on.

    • denise

      Hi Dee,
      Eczema and dehydration need good moisture so just make sure your cleanser is pH balanced (whichever you choose) so it doesn’t strip your skin. I have combo skin and previously tried to control my oily T-zone with specific products designed for that, such as those containing salicylic acid. The results were very short lived. When I changed my focus to strengthening my skin barrier, I saw improvements in moisture content AND oil balance. The oiliness and blocked pores were signs that my moisture barrier was not at its best. So, focusing on barrier repair instead of treatment for those particular imperfections made a difference for me. I still tend to oil control and clean pores with acid toners that I use every other night but hydration is the key for me. That, together with a good first step oil cleanser massaged into the skin to help loosen clogged pores helped my skin to change from true combination to more of a normal-to-oily skin type. I don’t have dry spots any more and my T-zone is far better balanced. Just something to consider if you are fighting a losing battle with this issue. Hopefully it works for you too.
      Denise

      • Dee

        Thanks for your advice. Yeah, I do oil cleanse too.

        I know what you mean about restoring the moisture barrier and hydration. Sadly, my skin becomes a massive oil slick which reddens my skin once there’s too much moisture so I’ll have to find a balance.

        Simplistic Begin + Pyunkang Yul Moisture Serum+ Moisture Cream = an explosion of oil and pimples!

        Now I’m waiting for my Purito cleanser and moisturiser samples. I hope the ninamicide isn’t too high though I’m considering moving away from Asian skincare ‘cos of all that brightening. And I’ve a suspicion the cleanser may be stripping. The Pyunkang Yul Acne one didn’t work out either.

        • denise

          Sorry to hear you’re having such a battle finding just the right products to help. Personally, I love the PKY moisture cream and serum and found them light but effective. I thought they would be ideal for oilier complexions.

          I have only used a couple of Purito products (they have a centella line which might be ideal), both are lovely (sunscreen and essence). They are a really gentle brand so hopefully will agree with your skin. Unfortunately for the most part, skincare is about trial and error. Good luck.

  • Dee

    Oh and I enquired to Tia’m if the snail and azulene cleanser had any sebum controlling properties. This was their reply.

    “Hi~ Snail and Azulene cleanser contains Citric Acid that can reduce excess sebum.” So that means this is totally a hydrating cleanser as “citric acid” is fairly down on the ingredients list.

    • denise

      Oh yes, the citric acid is low down on the INCI so maybe not sufficient enough to make any obvious impact on oil control but then again, if it’s too high, it can be sensitizing. Hopefully it will be a good balance for you.

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