CLAY+essence
Leegeehaam Grow Hyal B5 Toner
Dr. Ceuracle,  hydrating toner

Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner

the claim

Rebranded from Leegeehaam, the Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner claims to deliver long lasting hydration through the 5-Hyaluronic Complex which is said to infuse and fill deep moisturizing into the epidermis and dermis. Vitamin B5 and B3 form a strong moisture barrier, maintaining the optimal hydration level, while preventing any future water loss. Revitalizes dull and rough skin, leaving it radiant and plump.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner
 

the science

One of the heroes of the formula is the Penta-Hyaluronic Complex which is the collective term for the five forms of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) it contains (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate and Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate). The complex is said to deliver deep, yet long lasting moisturizing for dehydrated skin.

HA is naturally present in the human body. It draws up to 1000 times its weight in moisture from the atmosphere into the skin for a hydrated, plump and healthy appearance. Hydrated skin is more effective at keeping ageing at bay, helping to prevent wrinkles forming and diminishing the look of existing lines.

Different versions of HA come in varying molecular weights. According to the 2008 paper Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid: Its Effects on Epidermal Gene Expression and Skin Ageing, the different properties of high and low molecular weight HA generate different in-vivo effects with enhanced moisturization and elasticity shown for High Molecular Weight HA and a marked reduction of wrinkles demonstrated for Low Molecular Weight HAs. As molecular weight decreases, increased activity occurs due to more efficient skin penetration of the smaller HA molecules.

Niacinamide is a well tolerated form of Vitamin B3. It is a superstar ingredient that acts as a restorative agent to offer multiple skin benefits. It helps to brighten skin by inhibiting melanin production. It is an effective treatment against hyperpigmentation at concentrations of at least 2% and provides a strong defense against the appearance of discolouration and age spots. Niacinamide is additionally able to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness and to strengthen the skin surface. Also acting as a soothing and skin-restoring agent, Adenosine has proven anti-wrinkle benefits due to its ability to energize skin’s surface, helping it to look smoother and younger. As it is naturally present in the body, it is a beneficial for all skin types.

Also within the B group of vitamins is Panthenol, B5. Panthenol is an effective skin penetrator, able to reach into the lower layers for deep skin cell absorption and effective moisturisation. Some research indicates that it may also provide anti-inflammatory benefits that can counteract acne causing bacteria.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner
Always well represented in Dr. Ceuracle formulations are exotic botanical extracts. Wild Yam Root Extract is packed with Saponins which deliver anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. These can lead to a range of skin benefits including reductions in the rate with which wrinkles form and hyperpigmentation while also improving overall skin health and radiance. Also boosting anti-inflammatory strength of the formula are Black Hoof Mushroom and Burdock Root Extracts. Used traditionally in Asian medicine, the former also provides antioxidant and brightening properties, some research even suggesting it can have a positive impact on eczema.

An ingredient that is increasing in popularity within the Korean skincare market following its origins in Asian medicine is Centella Asiatica Extract. This powerful extract displays excellent healing abilities with anti-inflammatory properties easing irritation and acne. It also assists to stimulate new cell growth, build collagen and improve circulation. Similarly, rich in Phytonutrients and antioxidants, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract is able to stimulate skin metabolism. In doing so it firms and brightens the skin as well as helping to prevent premature ageing and possibly reducing acne formation and hyperpigmentation. Not only used for fragrance, Vanilla Extract boosts antioxidant activity to help protect against environmental stressors and also contains B group vitamins including Niacin, Thiamin, Riboflavin, B6 and Panthenol to strengthen the skin moisture barrier.

Enhancing the fight against ageing with strong antioxidant properties is Olive Oil. It helps by restoring skin smoothness and protecting against ultraviolet light. Deep penetration also provides both cleansing and moisturising effects. There is also an array of essential oils derived from Magnolia, Carrot, Nutmeg, Cardamom and Tagetes plants. Collectively, these oils provide calming, soothing, antioxidant, antiseptic, cleansing and healing properties, although they can be irritants to those with sensitive skin.

As usual, humectants play a part in this hydrating product, with Glycerin represented at a very high concentration, second only to water. There’s also Betaine in the formula. Meanwhile, Polyquaternium-51 and Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate help to reduce water loss with their film forming capability. Able to sooth skin, Beta-glucan can help improve the look of redness and sensitivity. Fairly high in concentration are Methylpropanediol and Propanediol which are glycols that have hydrating properties to help leave a smooth, dewy finish. Rounding the formula are emulsifiers, texture enhancers and preservative agents.
 

the ingredients

Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide (B3), Glycereth-26, Panthenol (B5), Dioscorea Japonica (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus (Black Hoof Mushroom) Extract, Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract, Piper Methysticum (Kava Kava) Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Michelia Alba (Magnolia) Leaf Oil, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Oil, Michelia Alba (Magnolia) Flower Oil, Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil, Coceth-7, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glycosyl Trehalose, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Beta-Glucan, Lecithin, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ppg-1-Peg-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, Ethylhexylglycerin
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner Ingredients
 

the packaging

The Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner is presented in a plastic clear green tinted bottle with a pump action dispenser and protective lid.
 

the analysis

An ideal assessment is returned from both the CosDNA and EWG databases, rating the toner an ideal low hazard with absolutely no warning flags.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner CosDNA Analysis
 

the application

Pump 1-2 times and apply over a cleansed face. Gently pat to absorb.
 

the scent

This Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner has a light scent, without added fragrance.
 

the cost

A 120ml bottle of the Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner sells for around US$28.00.
 

the availability

Dr. Ceuracle products are available at Korean skincare boutiques. I received mine from Style Korean as part of their Try Me, Review Me Leegeehaam brand pack, for the purpose of review. They don’t appear to stock the rebranded Dr. Ceuracle range which can however be found at Yes Style.
 

the expiry

The toner has a three year shelf life. I was unable to locate a duration of use after opening.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner Expiry
 

the performance

Consistent in design with the current range of products from this brand, the Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner is presented in a transparent plastic cylindrical pump action bottle with protective cap. Labeling is clear and simple, adding to the sleek, minimalist design. The packaging ensures hygienic dispensing of the product and also permits easy detection of remaining volume. The toner is clear and quite dense in viscosity. It’s thicker than both the Klairs Supple Preparation and Pyunkang Yul Essence Toners and resembles a serum more so than a toner.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner Texture
Although 1-2 pumps are directed and sufficient per application, I am a little heavy handed when it comes to hydrating toners and apply 2-3 pumps for generous coverage of face and neck and usually 1-2 layers. The scent is very mild, likely derived from the combination of botanical extracts and essential oils. It smells a little medicinal and herb like. It doesn’t linger and is very subtle so would only pose a problem to those with extreme sensitivity to essential oils or allergies to any of the included ingredients. This assumption is also supported by favourable CosDNA and EWG results.

In testing and in regular usage, I apply a hydrating toner after cleansing and acid toner (if I’m using one). It glides on effortlessly and absorbs fully after a minute or two. Any initial tackiness quickly dissipates with the scent upon absorption. I find this toner too complex to practice the 7-skin method, and in fact anything more than a couple of layers feels too heavy on my skin. This is a good thing however, as the 120ml bottle will last a long time since only 1-2 layers are required to achieve a satisfying level of hydration. After absorption, there is no residue or tacky surface which is nice.
 
Dr. Ceuracle Grow Hyal B5 Toner
Reflecting on the product claims, the toner is said to deliver long lasting hydration through the 5-Hyaluronic Complex and strengthening of the moisture barrier for more plump and radiant skin. Apart from Sodium Hyaluronate (listed as ingredient 18), the other four components of the Hyaluronic Complex are represented at what can be assumed to be too low a concentration to make any noticeable impact. They are listed way down in the ingredient list at positions 39, 41, 42 and 43 of 46 ingredients. However, this doesn’t mean that the toner doesn’t hydrate well. Quite the contrary in fact.

Together with a high concentration of Glycerin and a seemingly good dose of Panthenol the toner delivers notable moisture to the skin. The anti-inflammatory properties of botanical extracts help to soothe the skin, making this toner not only hydrating but somewhat healing. While using this product, I have noticed a reduction in patchy redness for an overall more even skin tone. A likely contributor to this outcome is a solid amount of Niacinamide which must be at least partly responsible for a boost in brightness and a reduction in skin dullness. Collectively, these effects have resulted in overall healthier and plumper looking skin, just as claimed.
 

the conclusion

I have enjoyed using this product. It’s a gentle and effective hydrator that has improved the general health and appearance of my skin. It works beautifully when coupled with the brand’s Grow Tea Tree 70 BHA Toner.
 

the summary

Pros Cons
Low hazard, safe formulation Only available on line for Australians
Gently hydrates and brightens the skin A little expensive
No added fragrance, colour, parabens or alcohol Sensitive skin may react to essential oils
Ideal for all skin types

 

the references

LeeGeeHaam website
Hyaluronic Acid INCI Decoder
Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid M. Farwick, P. Lersch, G. Strutz
Methylpropanediol Truth In Aging
Propanediol Truth In Aging
Niacinamide Paula’s Choice Skincare Dictionary
Niacinamide Benefits for Skin Jared Paventi
What are the Best Products with Niacinamide? Nicki Zevola Benvenuti
Panthenol Advanced Dermatology
Panthenol Truth In Aging
Wild Yam Extract: Incredible Anti-Aging Skincare Ingredient Gundry MD
Mesima Mushroom Craig Kraffer, Dermascope
Centella asiatica: The miracle ingredient your skin needs Oh Lolly
Amazing Benefits of Korean Red Ginseng Brenda Green
Vanilla is Good for Skin Too Annemarie Skin Care
Polyquaterniums Paula’s Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary
Adenosine Paula’s Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary

 


the disclaimer

Please read in context with my disclaimer.
 
This product was provided to me free of charge by Style Korean for review. This post only includes my honest opinion and experience of this product and is in no way influenced by LeeGeeHaam, Style Korean, product suppliers, representatives or any other third party.
 


 

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