essence,  May Coop

May Coop Raw Sauce

the claim

The May Coop Raw Sauce is a combined toner, emulsion and essence that hydrates and nourishes the skin. Made from 93% maple tree sap, fructan powder to nourish the skin and antioxidant rich botanical extracts, it claims to achieve more hydrated and dewy skin, ideal for all skin types.
May Coop Raw Sauce

the science

The hero ingredient in the entire May Coop Raw range is Maple Tree Sap. Featuring at 93% concentration, it retains an ability to absorb easily and hydrate deeply due to its low molecular size. Sap molecules are even smaller than those of water. Additionally, it delivers anti-ageing benefits due to amino peptides and antioxidants in its composition which help to rejuvenate the skin, supporting wrinkle fighters and collagen builders, Arginine and Creatine. Similarly, Fructan Powder is useful as an anti-inflammatory agent and as a building block of collagen and elastin for further anti-ageing benefits. It additionally displays similar properties to aloe vera, able to hold moisture for enhanced hydration.

Sea Water is packed with minerals including magnesium (anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial), calcium (cell growth and regulation) and potassium (cell function and water retention). Its absorption power helps to extract toxins on the skin including acne causing bacteria. Natural moisture reducing abilities can also help to regulate the overproduction of oil that leads to clogged pores.

Packed with botanical extracts, Raw Sauce displays antioxidant strength from Chestnut Bark, Grape as well as Black Currant Extracts, the latter carrying four times the amount of Vitamin C of oranges while soothing anti-inflammatory benefits are contributed by Betula Alba, Corn, Soybean and Rice Extracts. Pine Bark and Lingonberry Extracts help to improves skin hydration and elasticity. Finally, skin softening is additionally contributed by Wheat and Olive Extracts.

May Coop Raw Sauce also includes humectants Glycerin and the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Hyaluronate (HA). They help to hydrate the skin by drawing water to the skin from the atmosphere to achieve a plumping effect. However, placed second last on the INCI following Fragrance, it’s unlikely that HA has much impact on the skin.

Butylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol are commonly used to increase penetration of other ingredients and hence boost their effectiveness. Less desirable ingredients include colour, Ci 15510, Fragrance and Alcohol. There’s also Methylparaben for product preservation.

the ingredients

Acer Mono Sap, Alcohol, Glycerin, Peg-8, Sea Water Maris Aqua (sea Water), Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Water, Betula Alba Bark/leaf Extract, Castanea Sativa (chestnut) Bark Extract, Olea Europaea (olive) Fruit Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bark Extract, Ribes Nigrum (black Currant) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Vitis-idaea (Lingonberry) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (grape) Fruit Extract, Triticum Vulgare (wheat) Flour Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Extract, Zea Mays (corn) Germ Extract, Glycine Soja (soybean) Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Methylparaben, Carbomer, Arginine, Panthenol, Creatine, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Fructan Powder, Disodium Edta, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Parfum, Sodium Hyaluranate, Ci 15510
May Coop Raw Sauce

the packaging

May Coop Raw Sauce is elegantly presented in a long frosted glass bottle with hygienic drop dispenser and protective cap. The opening is sealed when new to prevent potential spillage. It is packaged in a cloth drawstring bag and encased in a cardboard box.
May Coop Raw Sauce Packaging
May Coop Raw Sauce Dropper Protection

the analysis

Fragrance, colour and preservatives reduce the safety rating of this product with both the CosDNA and EWG resources, rating the product a high hazard.
May Coop Raw Sauce CosDNA Analysis

the application

After cleansing and toning, apply to face and neck in upward and outward strokes with your fingertips or a cotton pad. Pat remaining product into skin until fully absorbed.

the scent

The May Coop Raw Sauce has a mild fresh scent.

the cost

A 150ml bottle of the May Coop Raw Sauce costs USD$43.00. It also comes in a smaller travel sized bottle (40ml) for USD$14.00.

the availability

May Coop products are available at Korean skincare boutiques such as Yes Style.

the expiry

The essence must be used within 12 months of opening. I estimate it has a shelf life of 2 years.
May Coop Raw Sauce Expiration

the performance

The May Coop Raw Sauce is elegantly presented in an elongated, sophisticated frosted glass bottle with dropper dispenser and screw top lid. Although beautiful in appearance, it has on more than one occasion almost fallen off the bathroom counter. Thankfully, that didn’t happen and I enjoyed the full bottle. As instructed, I used this after toner and before serum. It has a clear appearance and a serum like consistency, viscous but with plenty of slip.
May Coop Raw Sauce Texture
Although 93% of the bottle is made from nourishing maple tree sap, the second ingredient on the list is alcohol. This promotes quick dry down of the product and probably also contributes to its overall elegance. However, it can be drying or irritating to more sensitive skin types. Application leaves no stickiness or tackiness. There is no residue other than a slight drag on the skin which is eliminated by the serum(s) that follow.

Over time, I have discovered that my skin can only tolerate alcohol containing products in moderation and never layered with others. For instance, I wouldn’t apply this in the same routine as the Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum which has Ethanol at position 4 in its ingredient list. Coupled, these can cause me irritation. And I don’t apply such products consistently in day and night routines for the same reason. Too much exposure causes my skin to become inflamed. The rest of my review is based on regular but careful use so as not to expose my skin to too much alcohol in any combination.
May Coop Raw Sauce
I consider moderate use to include a single application per day without any other alcohol containing products. When used in such a way, I really enjoy the Raw Sauce and it lasts a long time! That also makes it good value, around 6 months use costing around USD$43 (AUD$60, approximately AUD$10 a month). The same logic dictates that I only use one layer after toner and before serum. Luckily, I find layering is not necessary with this product in order to gain its benefits. Applied in this way, this essence delivers good results without risking the irritation or dryness that layered or continuous alcohol may cause. It should be noted that this is a specific sequence that works for me. Those sensitive to alcohol may find it intolerable so I suggest patch testing for all users since it also contains fragrance, colour and parabens.

Recapping, the Raw Sauce provides antioxidant protection which is impossible to measure without lab conditions but can only be considered a positive outcome since it helps to neutralise free radicals that can cause premature ageing. It also claims added hydration and skin dewiness which I can definitely attest since my skin looking plump and fresh. As essence is never the only step of hydration in my routine, it is impossible to confirm the amount contributed by the essence versus the preceding toner and following serum steps. Nonetheless, there is a notable reduction in the level of dewiness and moisture achieved when this essence step in omitted.
May Coop Raw Sauce

the conclusion

May Coop Raw Sauce is a pleasure from both a visual and sensory perspective. It adds elegance to my vanity and my routine. I wouldn’t recommend this to sensitive skin types because of the presence of alcohol, fragrance, colour and parabens. However, it does retain a gentle finish for those with more robust skin like myself. With controlled use (once a day and not layered with other alcohol containing products), I found it rewarding.
May Coop Raw Sauce

the summary

Pros Cons
Gives skin a visible hydration boost Only available online for Australians
Suitable for most skin types Added fragrance and colour
Elegant, hygienic presentation Contains potentially drying alcohol
Improves skin softness and smoothness
Anti-ageing effects


the references

Yes Style website
Surprising Beauty Benefits of Salt Water Rachel Krause
Sodium Hyaluronate Truth In Aging
Betula Alba Truth In Aging
Pine bark extract improves skin aging signs Dermatology Times
Health Benefits of Black Currant Rebecca Morris
Lingonberry boosts hydration with anti-ageing benefits Personal Care Magazine
Vitis Vinifera Truth In Aging
Triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract Paula’s Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary
Rice Extract May Be Just What Your Beauty Routine Is Missing Sharon Feiereisen
Butylene Glycol The Dermatology Review
Arginine Truth In Aging


the disclaimer

Please read in context with my disclaimer.



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