Abib Hand Crème Type V

the claim

The Abib Hand Crème Type V  is said to have a scent inspired by Vincent van Gogh, starting with a sweet citrus and finishing with musk and sole. It claims to nourish and soothe hands, making them gentle to touch while also firming the skin barrier to help keep them moisturised.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V
 

the science

The two ingredients represented at the highest concentrations in the Abib Hand Crème Type V that follow water are Glycerin and Petrolatum. The formula relies heavily on these components to moisturise. They complement each other perfectly. Petrolatum is hydrophobic meaning it has water repelling properties and is insoluble in water therefore forms a barrier on the skin. Glycerin on the other hand is hydrophilic. It attracts water by absorbing moisture from the air.

Glycerin is a commonly used humectant in skincare. Petrolatum, also known as Petroleum Jelly, is a byproduct of petroleum refining. Vaseline is a classic example of petrolatum. When properly refined to a cosmetic grade it has no known health concerns, otherwise, it can be contaminated with toxic chemicals called Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs), known carcinogens. Different countries have varying regulations on the use of Petrolatum in cosmetics. The EU mandates that for cosmetic use, the full refining history of the ingredient must be declared and proven clean. I could not find any such requirement in the US or Australia however, when used in skincare, it must be cosmetic grade implying a low cancer risk.

Similarly, Dimethicone is a silicone based ingredient that prevents water loss by forming a protective hydrating barrier on the skin to repel water. It can fill in fine lines and wrinkles to result in plump looking skin.

Like glycerin, Urea is a humectant and hydrophilic substance. It’s naturally occurring, found in the skin surface and an active part (7%, decreasing with age) of our Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) which functions to keep skin hydrated. Reduced levels of urea lead to a lower water-binding capacity within the skin that can result in skin dryness, roughness or even eczema. Topical applications of urea result in skin softening and can even have an anesthetic effect helping to reduce itching and flare ups. Providing a protective film over the skin are a host of emollients in the formulation including Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ceteraryl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE; Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Isohexadecane.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V
 
Botanical extracts are added to help reduce wrinkles, fine lines and skin dullness. Moringa Seed Extract has been used historically to enhance lotions and perfumes for centuries. The leaves provide a rich source of protein, vitamin C, β-carotene, calcium and potassium. This in turn delivers antioxidant, antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-ageing properties. Antioxidant protection is also one of the strengths of Okra, Lupinus Albus Seed and Sweet Almond Extracts. Another age fighting ingredient is Purslane Extract, an annual succulent plant with powerful regenerative properties. As well as being rich in antioxidants, it is a good source of vitamins C and E, β-carotene and contains an impressive amount of barrier strengthening omega fatty acids.

Lauric Acid, Oleic Acid and Panthenol (provitamin B5) deliver excellent moisturising properties to the formulation although their concentration is assumed minimal given their late inclusion in the ingredient list. Butylene Glycol  is present to increase penetration of active ingredients and there’s also a few humectants to accompany glycerin, some also exhibiting antibacterial behaviour to help preserve the product, namely Pentylene Glycol and Caprylyl Glycol. Rounding off the formula are a handful of emulsifiers, thickeners plus not surprisingly, fragrance.
 

the ingredients

Water; Glycerin; Petrolatum; Ethylhexyl Stearate; Urea; Ceteraryl Alcohol; Butylene Glycol; Pentylene Glycol; Moringa Pterygosperma (Moringa)Seed Extract; Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus (Okra) Extract; Lupinus Albus Seed Extract; Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Extract; Portulaca Oleracea (Purslane) Extract; Glyceryl Stearate SE; Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate; Palmitic Acid; Dimethicone; Polysorbate 60; Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Stearic Acid; Isohexadecane; Caprylyl Glycol; Polysorbate 80; Sorbitan Oleate; Myristic Acid; Arachidic Acid; Lauric Acid; Oleic Acid; Panthenol; Xanthan Gum; Phenoxyethanol; Fragrance (Parfum)
 

the packaging

The Abib Hand Crème Type V comes in a tube with screw top lid.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V
 

the analysis

Warning flags are raised against the inclusion of fragrance, preservative and Petrolatum in both the CosDNA and EWG assessments. The former are known irritants and sensitizers, the latter as discussed in the science.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V CosDNA Analysis
 

the application

Apply an appropriate amount on the hands and spread all over.
 

the scent

The smell of this particular V model hand cream comprises of strong citrus tones.
 

the cost

A 50ml tube of the Abib Hand Crème Type V sells for US$18.00 at Style Korean.
 

the availability

Abib products are available at Korean skincare boutiques. I received mine from Style Korean.
 

the expiry

The hand cream expires 12 months after opening.
 

the performance

This is my first experience with the Abib brand. Returning skin that has been exposed to and suffered the effects of pollution and other stimuli to a natural state in the pursuit of beauty is the basis of their minimalist philosophy. Abib attempts to implement basic principles of simplicity, repetition, purity and closure to deliver essential design and enduring products, confirmed by their motto:

Never ending research is the only way to perfection… Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.

The brand has released four differently scented hand creams, each inspired by the fine arts, in this case, Vincent van Gogh whose paintings often depicted flowers. In terms of presentation, packaging is typical of such a product but spruced up with a metallic finish and a trendy sewn on label. The opening is sealed when new to maintain product freshness and eliminate the possibility of contamination. Reversing the screw top lid into the opening, penetrates the seal making it ready for use.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V sealed for freshness
 
The cream is white in colour and quite dense in consistency. It exhibits excellent spreadability and absorption qualities, taking only a minute or so to fully sink in. Once penetrated, there is absolutely no residue remaining. However, it does leave a strong scent which is to be expected from a self-proclaimed fragrant product. The smell is immediate and strong at first, becoming more subtle after application. It is however extremely lasting and fresh. Furthermore, the scents are not typically feminine or masculine so this definitely exhibits unisex in appeal. I apply this cream every few hours and find that its aroma pleasantly lingers between applications.

The brand has nailed the scent description. It claims citrus opening tones with lasting effects of musk and sole which are totally detectable and spot on. (Sole, pronounced solay, is water that has been fully saturated with a natural salt). Although I do find this cream too strongly scented upon initial application, within a few minutes, the aroma dissipates to a more pleasant and tolerable concentration, not unlike a regular perfume.
 
Abib Hand Crème Type V Texture
 
The moisturising strength of this product delivers a double dose of wonderful. My hands feel soft, smooth and supple after using this product a few times a day. I also use this on rough patches such as elbows to experience similar positive results. The combination of glycerin, urea and petrolatum certainly boosts the ability of skin to retain moisture and protect from trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). It’s difficult to conclude or confirm the benefits of the antioxidants and anti-ageing properties in the cream after only a few weeks, however, the science certainly supports these claims which may become evident after longer term use.
 

the conclusion

If you’ve read any of my posts, you know I am an advocate for fragrance free skincare. However, in this case, I review a scented hand cream so it would be foolish and unfair to criticise this product on this basis. Instead, I praise this hand cream for its achievements in providing a refreshing and pleasant scent that also excels at moisturising the skin, both these benefits having lasting effects. Of course, those sensitive to fragrance should stay clear of this product, otherwise, it is suitable for all other skin types.
 

the summary

Pros Cons
Lasting moisturisation Not for sensitive skin
Easily absorbed without any residue
Scent lingers between applications
Pleasant unisex citrus, musk and salt tones
Good for elbows and rough patches
Suitable for most skin types

 

the references

Style Korean website
Petrolatum, petroleum jelly Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
Petrolatum Cosmetics Info
What is Urea and its Benefits in Skincare Samantha Miller
Urea squashes dry skin conditions Truth In Aging
Moringa Leaf Phytochemicals for Skin Benefits Diana M. Cheng & Ilya Raskin, Nutrasorb
Moranga Essential Oil Ayuvedic Oils
Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract Certified Organic Cosmetics
12 Remarkable Benefits Of Sweet Almond Oil For Beautiful Skin & Hair Susan Patterson
Do You Know The Skincare Benefits of Purslane? the skincare pharmD
Dimethicone Truth In Aging

 


the disclaimer

Please read in context with my disclaimer.
 
This product was provided to me free of charge by Style Korean for review. This post only includes my honest opinion and experience of this product and is in no way influenced by Abib, Style Korean, any of its representatives or any other third party.
 


related posts


 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *