Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream

the claim

The Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream claims to be a luxury moisturising cream containing time honoured oriental herbs as used by Korean empresses of the Joseon Dynasty. Ginseng and Orchid extract brighten, firm and target the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines for a radiant complexion.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
 

the science

Listed as the third ingredient after Water and Butylene Glycol (included to enhance the absorption and hence effectiveness of actives), Niacinamide is a well tolerated form of Vitamin B3. It is a superstar ingredient that acts as a restorative agent to offer multiple skin benefits. It helps to brighten skin by inhibiting melanin production. It is an effective treatment against hyperpigmentation at concentrations of at least 2% and provides a strong defense against the appearance of discolouration and age spots. Niacinamide is additionally able to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness and to strengthen the skin surface.

Hyaluronic Acid enhances the skin’s ability to replenish moisture, helping to achieve younger looking skin. Hydration improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by creating a plumping effect. Trehalose further increases skin’s water content. Able to improve dry and damaged skin with high fatty acid content, Hydrogenated Lecithin together with fatty alcohols/acids, Stearyl, Behenyl and Cetearyl Alcohols plus Stearic Acid, reduce flaking and restore suppleness. Also acting as a soothing and skin-restoring agent, Adenosine has proven anti-wrinkle benefits due to its ability to energize the skin’s surface, helping it to look smoother and younger.

Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitamin E, displays strong antioxidant properties and an ability to promote healing, strengthen the skin’s barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Olive, Sunflower, Flaxseed, Safflower and Argan Oils boost the Vitamin E content of the formula. Together with Radish Leaf Extract, they are good sources of essential fatty acids for tighter, smoother and more moisturised skin. Enhancing soothing, healing, moisturising and balancing is Shea Butter, an ideal treatment for dryness.

There are also Ceramides in the formula which replenish natural lipids lost due to environmental factors. Their water-retention capacity and moisture barrier strengthening provide skin replenishing and restoring benefits.

Following its origins in Asian medicine, Centella Asiatica Extract and Calendula Extract display excellent healing abilities with anti-inflammatory properties, easing irritation and acne. The former also assists to stimulate new cell growth, build collagen and improve circulation. Sea Buckthorn Oil  is a super skin food comprising Vitamins C and E, folic acid, carotenoids, omega fatty acids and flavonoids. These amazing components give it the ability to reduce wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation and photoageing as well as stimulate collagen production. It is good for acne as it helps to keep pores clean.

Several botanical extracts provide additional benefits. Rice Extract is rich in amino acids, Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid assuring anti-inflammatory and calming effects as well as providing moisturisation. Cucurbit Extract enhances hydration while Orchid Extract contributes protective antioxidants and conditions the skin. Panax Ginseng Root Extract exhibits good anti-ageing properties, helping with firmness. Honey also helps this function as well as adding antibacterial strength to counteract acne and soothe the skin.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
 

the ingredients

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil, EGF 2-Nano, Argania Spinosa Kernel (Argan) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ceramide 3, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae (Cucumber) Extract, Orchid Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Fragrance, Honey
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream Ingredients
 

the packaging

The Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream is presented in a glass jar with screw top plastic lid and spatula. A decorative handmade paper is tied with string over the lid, presenting an old fashioned appearance reminiscent of the era of Korean empresses.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream Packaging
 

the analysis

Acceptable assessments are returned by both the CosDNA and EWG resources, rating the Dynasty Cream a low-medium hazard without warning flags. This is primarily attributed due to the presence of fragrance.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream CosDNA Analysis
 

the application

For use as a moisturiser, cleanse and tone the face, then scoop out a small amount, massage over skin and neck for 2-3 minutes. Pat and press gently for full absorption. As a sleeping pack, massage the cream over face and neck after the full routine. The third way this can be used is as a makeup base. Before applying foundation, massage an even layer of cream over the face, pat and press gently, allow to set then follow with makeup.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
 

the scent

The Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream has a light scent.
 

the cost

A 50ml jar of the Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream sells for around AUD$35.00.
 

the availability

Beauty of Joseon products are available at Korean skincare boutiques. I purchased mine from Yes Style.
 

the expiry

The cream has a three year shelf life and must be used within 12 months of opening.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream Expiry
 

the performance

Presentation is nothing short of classy. Packaged in a heavy glass jar, slightly tapered at the bottom, it includes a traditional hand made paper covering giving it an authentic look of the Joseon dynasty. It includes a screw top lid, protective inner seal and dispensing spatula made of plastic. The cream itself is glossy and white. It has a stiffness about it, somewhat jelly like and bouncy. It stretches similarly to a snail product although there is no such ingredient in the formula.
 
The traditional look of the Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
I had a hard time describing the scent. There is added fragrance as the second last item on the ingredient list so whatever it is, it’s at least partly artificial. To me, it is subtle and lightly floral. There is no hanbang characteristic to it and barely can I detect any herbal tones. To be honest, I actually don’t even notice it.

In terms of application, I used this as the last step of my routine day and night until finished before posting this review. It applies nicely with plenty of slip and absorbs fully without any sense of tackiness or oily residue. From memory, it reminds me a little of the Thank You Farmer True Water Light Gel Cream in that its texture, application and moisturising ability are all very similar. I loved the gel cream so you can probably guess where this is going.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream Texture
Looking at the ingredient list and the product claims, I expected brightening to occur, my tone to become more uniform. The product suggests Ginseng and Orchid Extracts are responsible for this effect in the cream however, their concentrations appear too insignificant to make any noticeable impact. I identified Niacinamide as the key ingredient likely to be responsible for this effect. Even though it is as high up as third in the list, I didn’t observe brightening at all. I can’t confirm any tone change while using this cream.

Promising improvements in firming skin and easing fine lines and wrinkles, the key ingredient that addresses this claim is Adenosine. Although in theory, this is said to improve lines, it’s such a difficult thing to observe over a period of a few months without lab conditions. I can’t say that this cream made any impact to existing lines and wrinkles, however, I didn’t notice any increase in depth of existing lines nor any new line formations. This would also be a result of improved hydration since more moisture plumps the skin and smooths out lines. Given how gradual the ageing process is, this probably means nothing. I think there is definitely potential for long term use of this cream to help with fine lines but in the short term, the jury is out.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
This cream has three different functions: it works as a regular moisturiser, a sleeping pack and a makeup primer. Firstly and the way I used it most, as a moisturising cream, I found it to be effective. It gave my combination skin sufficient hydration between morning and evening applications. My skin felt instantly plumped, soft and moisturised and this feeling lasted for several hours. Furthermore, it played well with foundation, making a good base, although it should be noted that I use very light coverage. Heavy foundation users may get different results. The way it appears to have worked most effectively however, is as a sleeping pack. Applying a slightly thicker layer at night (not too thick as it would take too long to absorb) would find me waking with supple skin that was plump and soft to touch every time. If you don’t like using this as a moisturiser, then switch to a sleeping mask as it is simply wonderful in this capacity.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
So in summary, this cream has a divine texture, looks fantastic, absorbs well without notable residue and delivers long lasting hydration. I really enjoyed the weight of this product as it is gel-like and not really creamy (even though it is called a cream), so ideal for my truly combination skin type. It didn’t break me out at all, although it should be noted, I rarely suffer acne. It softened dry patches and didn’t promote oil/sebum production in oily parts of the face. I think it would suit all skin types as it provides good, long lasting moisture and isn’t heavy.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
 

the conclusion

I have read many mixed reviews of this cream. Some, like Cat, author of the Snow White and the Asian Pear blog, love it. Others such as the Peeping Pomeranian, call it a dud. Skincare is a very personal experience, so I am convinced both these bloggers are genuine in their reviews. The only way to truly understand if a product will suit, is to try it. In this case, I found the Dynasty Cream ideal. Although it didn’t deliver brightening as promised, its efficacy as a moisturiser alone is sufficient for me to love and repurchase it.
 
Beauty Of Joseon Dynasty Cream
 

the summary

Pros Cons
Classy packaging Only available online for Australians
Effectively plumps and moisturises No observed brightening
Long lasting hydration
Excellent sleeping pack
Lightweight texture
Ideal for all skin types

 

the references

How Hyaluronic Acid Benefits Skin Paula’s Choice
Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin Cosmetics Info
Niacinamide Paula’s Choice Skincare Dictionary
Niacinamide Benefits for Skin Jared Paventi
What are the Best Products with Niacinamide? Nicki Zevola Benvenuti
Adenosine Paula’s Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary
Trehalose Truth In Aging
Tocopheryl Acetate Truth In Aging
Ceramides Paula’s Choice Skincare Dictionary
What Are the Benefits of Raw Shea Butter? Kimberly Riggins
Benefits of Olive Oil for Skin Dr. Edward Group
Sunflower Seed, the Skin Protector Annemarie Skin Care
Centella asiatica: The miracle ingredient your skin needs Oh Lolly
Sea Buckthorn Berries, the Superfood for Your Skin AnneMarie Skin care
Sea Buckthorn Truth In Aging
Argania Spinosa Truth In Aging
Radish Seed Oil Virgin, Unrefined Essential Natural Oils
Rice Extract May Be Just What Your Beauty Routine Is Missing Sharon Feiereisen

 


the disclaimer

Please read in context with my disclaimer.
 


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